Travelogue Part 3: Poland

The Baltics rail infrastructure mostly dates from the Soviet period and thus uses a different gauge of track than the rest of the EU. Which is why we took a coach to Poland.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Getting a bus in the morning from somewhere … in the vicinity of the city.

For five hours.

Because the one train of the day, the pink soup express, books up very quickly.

14th August 2026, 7:02 pm 0 boosts 3 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

"Wait, pink soup?" You ask.

Hold on to your knickers: tasteoflithuania.com/saltibars

Šaltibarščiai
Šalti means cold
Barščiai sounds like borscht

But its not just cold borscht, it is luridly bright pink because it is mixed with kefir (and also typically features a boiled egg floating in it). In Lithuania, it is typically served with warm spuds on the side, something deemed odd by Latvians. There is a rivalry between the two countries over who invented this culinary wonder and who does it best.

Vegan versions do exist. I will report on this after I return home. My spouse calls it a "salad soup".

14th August 2026, 7:42 pm 0 boosts 3 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Anyway, is this soup so celebrated that it actually deserves an express train (actually slower than bus service)?

No.

Don't tell the tourist office, though. They've gone big on the soup.

14th August 2026, 7:50 pm 0 boosts 1 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Waiting for the coach outside a grocery store at an unmarked stop. Google says this is the place. There are no other people with luggage.

15th August 2026, 8:03 am 0 boosts 1 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

On the bus, conveniently sat next to the toilet.

15th August 2026, 8:08 am 0 boosts 2 favorites

Anyway, maybe some last thoughts about the Baltics while on the journey….

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

On Vilnius, the city buses express solidarity for Ukraine. Across the Baltics, the flag of Ukraine is typically flown next to the national flag. If there ate only two flag holders, they will skip the EU in favour of Ukraine.

One of the city buildings in Vilnius has an enormous banner, in English, telling Putin that the Hague is waiting.

Ive seen market booths collecting charity for Ukraine and a woman with a bucket of change, in a church foyer doing the same.

The Lithuanian Foreign Ministry building has one public display, showing a map of Ukraine, including it's prewar territories. It lists the number of square kilometres those borders contain.

Ukraine may not win their war, but Russia does not have the resources to wage multiple conflicts. Ukraine is protecting the entire former eastern bloc.

Large text reading, "Putin, The Hague is waiting for you." Below are three flags, one of which is the flag of Lithuania and another of which is the flag of Ukraine. Below that is a hard to see outline on the building which is the city symbol of Vilnius.
15th August 2026, 8:24 am 4 boosts 9 favorites

The loooong journey. The bus we got on starts in Helsinki and ends in Warsaw. We were only on it until it got to a Polish train station.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

🎶 The wheels on the coach go round and round.
Rough and round.
Round and round.

15th August 2026, 12:12 pm 0 boosts 2 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The home town of Zamenhof is next to a forest.

La hejmurbo de Zamenhof estas proksima arbaro. Mi ĉiom imaĝinis ion pli urban.

Or I dunno maybe its more than 20 minutes away.

15th August 2026, 12:47 pm 0 boosts 1 favorites
The home town of Zamenhof is near a forest. I always imagined something more urban.

Did you know that Esperanto was invented by a Polish eye doctor? (Ĉu vi konas ke mi studis Esperanton?) Translations will be provided, especially as my current Esperanto skills are not very good and the original likely contains errors. (“Did you know that I studied Esperanto?”)

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Apparently, Poland takes its green belts very seriously. Cross a border and you go from forest to city.

15th August 2026, 12:57 pm 2 boosts 6 favorites

Białystok is Zamenhof’s birth place and also the tenth largest city in Poland. It is right next a major national forest sometimes called “the lungs of Poland”. We arrived there on a national holiday, looked at a grocery store, and then got on a train.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Got a train ticket but not a reservation. I've had to move seats after every stop.

(But at least they have trains.)

15th August 2026, 3:11 pm 0 boosts 2 favorites
A bollard in Warsaw, decorated to look like a Jewish person. The many surrounding bollards were also dressed as different kinds of people.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Staying in a neighbourhood in Warsaw that has vibes like Berlin did 20 years ago.

The hotel is extremely Berlin coded, with big plastic gummi bears in the stairwell.

Its nice being on a properly large city with access to plentiful, good vegan food. But also I'm definitely doing gentrification, as a passive touristic consumer and I don't like that.

15th August 2026, 8:32 pm 0 boosts 2 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The Jewish history museum in Warsaw is very good.

But using slop animations of a painting of a yeshiva is not a choice they should have made. Really really not. More inexplicable than having both meat and milk in the canteen.

16th August 2026, 12:59 pm 2 boosts 4 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Interesting to see the Bund, International Socialism (exemplified by Rosa Luxembourg) and Esperanto all as responses to a period of rapid upheaval.

Other responses included a push for integration and, less cheeringly Zionism.

And, like, I owe a lot to integration, but its not where my idealism lies.

16th August 2026, 1:47 pm 0 boosts 3 favorites

Zamenhof was Jewish and his universalism was treated by the Polin Museum as a specifically Jewish response to rapid change.

There were other movements around the same time dedicated to the notion of a universal second languages, especially Volapük, so it was an idea in the air at the time. However, Zamenhof was also responding to the mutual unintelligibility of Yiddish, Polish and Russian. The language has it’s name because Jews were not allowed to publish books, so he used “Dr Esperanto” (lit. ‘one who hopes’) as a pseudonym. He had linguistic skills from studying Jewish languages. And his publication was held when his father, in a panic, to try to keep him from breaking the law.

Of course, socialism and anarchism also were not specifically Jewish movements, but they did have significant Jewish participation.

…. But all of these museums continue past the golden ages….

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

In Poland, it's illegal to say that Poles collaborated with the Nazis on the Holocaust.

The Jewish History Museum notes that the Warsaw Ghetto clearance was carried out by the SS, the Gestapo and by soldiers from Latvia, Ukraine, and Lithuania, as well as the Jewish Police.

So the only Poles to collaborate on the extermination of Jews were Jews.

…Anyway, its exciting to be in the only country occupied by Nazis where no local fascists collaborated.

(I am not criticising this cultural institution for following the laws of its country.)

Edit: "A few Poles murdered Jews." says a thing further on….

16th August 2026, 3:05 pm 1 boosts 5 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I'm just going to skip the 20th century at these things. I feel like I have adequate knowledge of the Shoah.

And, like, they did cover the mass exodus of Jews in the 1960s, but it's hard to pay attention to anything after several rooms on the Shoah. I feel like they may have been a bit vague about why so many people left….

16th August 2026, 3:50 pm 0 boosts 1 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Actually, the interwar stuff was really interesting, especially Yiddish Theatre and the YIVO archives.

16th August 2026, 4:15 pm 0 boosts 3 favorites

And, back to Esperanto!

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Esperanto en Varsovio, Pollando.

Estas murpentraĵo proksime zamenhof-strato.

16th August 2026, 8:44 pm 0 boosts 2 favorites
Esperanto in Warsaw, Polland. There is a mural near Zamenhof Street.

The Esperanto mural is an odd mix of famous quotes in Polish and Esperanto. The mix of figures is weird (the donkey from Shreck, Yoda, Clint Eastwood, etc) seem to mostly have no relationship to Esperanto at all.

Tie ĉi staris dono in kiu en la jaroj 1989-1915 vivis kaj laboras D-ro Ludviko ZAMENHOF kriento de la lingvo Esperanto. La tabulon oni enmurigis en la cent-jara datreveno de lia naskiĝo. Varsovio * 1959
A historic marker: On this spot stood the house in which Dr Ludwig Zamenhof, creator of the Esperanto language, lived and worked, during the years 1898-1915. This marker was installed on the centenary of his birth. Warsaw * 1959

Esperanto was suppressed by Nazis, but also suppressed by Soviets. Stalin spoke a bit of it in his more radical youth, but once he had power, became concerned about the ability it gave workers to speak to one another across borders and establish links with the West. Ironically, it was also suppressed in the US for the same reasons. US speakers found themselves blacklisted. Soviet speakers might face the gulag.

However, after the death of Stalin and the end of the McCarthy hearings, there was a warming on both sides of the Iron Curtain. Stalin had not been dead very long when this marker was put up. It would have been inconceivable while he was in power.


Anyway, we also went on walks and the like.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Spouse: I bet this is part of the Eurovelo route.

Me: There's a cycle route sign. [Notices the antisemitic graffiti.]

Spouse: [sighs]

17th August 2026, 11:52 am 0 boosts 4 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

There is so much less hate graffiti than the last time I was here. The next thing I saw was crossed out.

17th August 2026, 12:02 pm 0 boosts 1 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Incredible buzzing sound at the neon museum.

What must their electric bills be like!

17th August 2026, 2:01 pm 0 boosts 1 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

My spouse: Would you like to have one of my pancakes for afters?

Me: I'm stuffed.

Spouse: Its wafer-thin!

17th August 2026, 7:25 pm 0 boosts 6 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Went to Poland's largest Jewish cemetery. Its got a museum and a lovely woodland with squirrels and enormous snails.

It also has just piles of stone grave markers reclaimed from desecration.

18th August 2026, 10:19 am 0 boosts 3 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Asked Polish trainspotters if our local train to the main station was cancelled or just late. The conversation required phone translation as the trainspotters were siblings of about ten and twelve.

18th August 2026, 11:48 am 1 boosts 9 favorites

Travelogue Part 2

They oy vey tour continued with some cool artefacts

But the vibe of the tour tended to focus on the negative.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Re-traumatised myself on a Jewish tour.

12th August 2026, 11:58 am 0 boosts 4 favorites

But does it need to be this way?

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

More joy, less vey?

12th August 2026, 12:05 pm 0 boosts 7 favorites

Carrying on to some other interests…

In the music museum

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I have come to what turns out not to be a musical instrument museum, but which has a massive exhibition of one of the national composers of Lithuania.

He dates from the early 20th, century, so this is a project of looking backwards for hope, maybe? I don't know. This isn't my period, but I don't think he's internationally known and all the text is in Lithuanian.

There is however one room playing a recording that sounds quite original and which is very nice.

Čiurlionio is the composer but I can't figure out the name of the orchestral piece. It sounds a bit spectralist. Edit: it might be called Psalmė

13th August 2026, 9:40 am 1 boosts 4 favorites

And shopping…

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

[In a bow tie shop. A couple comes in.]

Clerk, to woman: Wow, your glasses, necklace and earrings are amazing.

Me, realising the bow ties are ruinously expensive and leaving: Wow, she's right about your glasses.

Man: You sound like a native anglophone.

Me: Yes.

Man: That's Prue, host of the Great British Bakeoff

Me: What, really?

13th August 2026, 10:23 am 2 boosts 11 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I don't watch GBBO because its kind of vegan hostile tbh, but I did not share this….

13th August 2026, 10:24 am 0 boosts 5 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I hope she enjoys having her fame pointed out to others.

13th August 2026, 10:25 am 0 boosts 4 favorites

And more oy vey

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

[At another Jewish museum]

Instructional sign: Please take a stone to leave at the memorial to murdered Jewish Children.

Me: I might just skip this part.

13th August 2026, 12:00 pm 0 boosts 5 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Why are so many memorials being constructed specifically now, especially in places like the Baltics?

My speculative answers:

1. They reflect the funding priorities of international granting organisations, some of which comes from things like Americans looking back to the stories of their great grandparents and some of which reflects a desire to do something about growing antisemitism. Conventional wisdom is that Holocaust education is an effective way to counter hate.

2. As the survivors die of old age, there is an urgent need to institutionalise their memories.

3. The perpetrators, the majority of whom were not German but local, are safely dead.

13th August 2026, 12:06 pm 2 boosts 8 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

4. Germany is a major source of funding for Shoah memorial projects and is also a key military ally of the Baltics. The Baltic states do not have the resources to fight Russia without help and NATO is not currently reliable. This gives Germany a lot of soft power to advance its cultural projects, even if they expose uncomfortable history, especially if the perpetrators are all dead and are not considered to be at all patriotic or heroic.

5. Jewish cultural priorities are often actively trauma-seeking. The reasons for this are various and complex, but also just, like, go read 'Maus'.

13th August 2026, 3:32 pm 1 boosts 7 favorites

Other cultural events

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

At a heaving church for a concert with a koto and girls in traditional Lithuanian dress.

13th August 2026, 3:52 pm 0 boosts 4 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

But first a welcome speech from the Japanese ambassador.

13th August 2026, 4:05 pm 0 boosts 3 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

It is a concert lecture wherein after the first piece, the shakihatchu player explains the instrument's technical details in Japanese, which is translated sentence by sentence into Lithuanian.

He is showing off timbres and scales.

I have never been to a more crowded concert.

13th August 2026, 4:26 pm 0 boosts 5 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Spouse: I thought you wanted to do the Oy Vey tour.

Me: No, I just want to do Jewish history tours, but they keep being wall to wall trauma.

Spouse: Oh.

Me:

Spouse: Because we are going to be very near Auschwitz in a few days…

Me: No

13th August 2026, 9:10 pm 0 boosts 2 favorites

We went to the cemetery and then an exhibition about it in town.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Skipping the 20 minute pre-recorded audio meditation on contemplating my own eventual decomposition.

14th August 2026, 12:37 pm 0 boosts 2 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Spouse dropped her phone in the toilet (the room, not the bowl) next to the cemetery exhibit. Somebody brought it to the café next door.

Celebratory vegan cake all around.

14th August 2026, 1:06 pm 0 boosts 4 favorites

We also went to a load of churches, as one does.

And other religious sites with a nice view

etc…

Then we went to Poland.

Travelogue Part 1

We went to the Baltics and beyond. I don’t fly is at all avoidable, so we went by train boat and bus.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

It is 6am in Brussels. I am sitting on a German train. It is delayed.

29th July 2026, 4:16 am 0 boosts 6 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I am always impressed by train conductors ability to speak like 5 languages.

There was just an announcement explaining how to get through weird train duckups in French, German, Nederlands, and English.

29th July 2026, 6:02 am 0 boosts 9 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Late lunch in Hamburg imminent.

29th July 2026, 12:16 pm 0 boosts 3 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

One my third late-running train of the day. Deutsche Bahn could do better. I firmly believe they could have reach 100% late running, instead of just 75%

29th July 2026, 3:47 pm 2 boosts 12 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

[Quickly and quietly stuffing a small wand and gossamer wings into my backpack.] Of course it's a _ferry_ port. This is exactly what I envisioned.

29th July 2026, 5:14 pm 3 boosts 13 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Incredibly long announcement on the ferry in a language I don't know at all.

29th July 2026, 8:42 pm 0 boosts 4 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Standing in a Lithuanian supermarket, wondering how I would recognise vegan yogurt if they had it.

30th July 2026, 8:43 pm 0 boosts 7 favorites

The Baltic states are in the EU, so the standard European brands are all present. You can buy Alpro. There is no lovely local soy yogurt maker.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

A further boat ride, bus ride, and hike brings us to a famed beach. I seem to be slightly allergic to whatever insect bit my legs on the hike.

31st July 2026, 3:05 pm 0 boosts 5 favorites
Beach on the Baltic sea, at the Curzon Split
The Woods between the village and the sea

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I can see Russia in the distance from where I am sitting.

31st July 2026, 3:11 pm 0 boosts 7 favorites

Kaliningrad is a bit of Russia which is geographically disconnected from the rest of the country. It was slightly further away than I thought when I took this picture:

The view south down the split

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Lithuanian for "thank you" is pronounced "achoo". It is currently my only word. I am faintly paranoid that I've got it subtly wrong or that I'm somehow communicating "sneeze" when I say it.

1st August 2026, 10:20 am 0 boosts 11 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Rented a bicycle. I wanted to suggest riding to the Russian border, but the area is a nature reserve, dominated by a feature whose name translates to "death valley". Rode north instead.

1st August 2026, 11:49 am 0 boosts 10 favorites

The sand dunes are called “Death Valley” because it was used by Germany as a prisoner of war camp. Not in World War 2, but a previous war, when the Split was part of Germany. They kept French soldiers in a terribly inadequate camp and many died.

Sand dunes, then woods, then more distant sand dunes, then Russia.
Death Valley. On the far side of the dunes is Russia.

The area closest to the Russian border is considered highly protected natural landscape that nobody is allowed to visit. This is also to avoid border incidents.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The weather here is what English summer used to be: near twenty degrees with occasional rainy days.

But instead of relentless drizzle, proper rain started on the cycle ride back.

A strange 'womp' sound echoed from across the water, like the slap of a wave against a speedboat. I think it was distant thunder.

1st August 2026, 2:55 pm 0 boosts 6 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I've been in louder hotels and I've been in more expensive hotels, but if one were to chart these two factors, tonight would certainly be an outlier.

1st August 2026, 7:31 pm 0 boosts 1 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Vegan food is sometimes unavailable, so I'm eating eggs and milk. Today was such a challenge that I started to wonder if I should eat a fish. I guess my hard boundary is milchig.

I'm not allergic, so I know my stomach will adjust to this situation. Eventually.

2nd August 2026, 8:38 pm 0 boosts 3 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

"Travel" underwear:

Take off before bed. Rub vigorously with hand soap. Rinse thoroughly. Wring out vigorously. Roll in dry towel and forcefully compress. Hang up overnight. Find it's still very damp in the morning. Put on other pair of travel underwear. Hang damp pair from the outside of backpack to allow to dry as you move on to the next destination. Try not to think about underwear flapping from your bag as you ride the bus.

3rd August 2026, 7:02 am 0 boosts 16 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Hotel clerk: [Speaking Russian to other worker.]

Spouse: Spasseeba

Clerk: In Lithuania, spasseeba is achoo.

3rd August 2026, 11:44 am 0 boosts 6 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Vegan magnums is in the Baltic are "green smoothie" flavoured. This is dominated by artificial banana.

A magnum wrapper providing photographic evidence.
3rd August 2026, 1:49 pm 0 boosts 7 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I've finally got hello to stick in my brain. It is svaykee. Just in time to say iki (goodbye) on a coach called the "LUX Express".

4th August 2026, 9:50 am 0 boosts 1 favorites

We went on to Liepaja, the European capital of culture for 2027. I promptly caught a cold.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

To get a tram ticket simply scan the QR code to visit our website, where you can sign up for an account with your phone number, email address, date of birth and country of residence. You password must include two numbers, a special character, an uppercase character and a lowercase character. Then you can buy a ticket using your credit card. (That form is not translated from Latvian).

To spend the ticket, simply download our android app, which depends on Google play services, which will render your purchased ticket as a QR code for the scanner on the bus.

Or you can use the Latvian interface on the scanner to type in the 37 digit serial number for the ticket.

Tickets give you unlimited rides for 40 minutes and cost €1. Failure to purchase a tucket in advance can result in a €10 penalty fare.

4th August 2026, 12:12 pm 1 boosts 7 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Me: One more question. About tram fares.

Tourist office worker: You can pay the driver €1.50. Or if you download the app, you can get them for €1.

Spouse: Paying the driver it is!

4th August 2026, 4:45 pm 2 boosts 12 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I have questions. I'm not sure I want the answers.

A pair of shop windows, both painted with crossed knives and the words Divi Naži. Which means 'two knives.'
4th August 2026, 4:47 pm 0 boosts 8 favorites

The name of the butcher shop translates to “Two Knives”

Two Knives butcher

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

One of the few purveyors of vegan food is called Valhalla. There's a history of Vikings in the region.

I always imagined Valhalla would have more mead and fewer vegan options and bug bites, but what if its heaven for Viking mosquitoes?

4th August 2026, 4:53 pm 0 boosts 4 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I have a cold for the first time in a very long time. Spent this morning and afternoon sleeping in bed. Went out for a late lunch on a terrace. Went back to the hostel to lie awake in the bed. Its a private room with a shared toilet.

I did not bring a mask of any kind and I don't want to make anyone sick, but also absolutely nobody is wearing a mask anywhere. A man coughed on me on the bus.

Anyway, I got a covid vax several days before I left and also this just feels like a cold.

5th August 2026, 3:18 pm 0 boosts 2 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I finally got the city app to install and its showing the bus ticket I purchased. It also has a list of every civic event going on, including art exhibits and concerts. Its really very good.

5th August 2026, 3:23 pm 0 boosts 6 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Got up, went to a tiny museum. No longer coughing or sneezing, but I think its time for a nap.

6th August 2026, 9:42 am 0 boosts 2 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I felt well enough for a three hour bus ride today, so now I'm in Riga. I barely saw Liepaja, but my spouse had seen everything twice.

Riga is recognisably a European capital city and so is full of museums big and small. I went into the KGB museum and it did rather strongly make the case that Stalin was not a good guy.

The Soviet Union invaded Latvia in 1940 and then a year later, Nazis invaded, then the Soviets came back. The museum mentioned that the Soviets arrested a lot of people both times. They failed to mention that in 1940, virtually every leader of the Jewish community was deported to Russia or sometimes Siberia.

There is an argument that the leaderless community was therefore unable to prepare for the Nazi occupation, but how could they have prepared? Thousands of Jews were shot. Massacres in Latvia were filmed.

However, the KGB museum failed to say anything at all about the Nazi period and skipped ahead to the Sovet return.

After the end of the war, Jews who had been deported did return. Most of the Latvian Jewish community is descended from former exiles. This was not in the museum.

The museum mentioned that some "ethnic groups" were harassed by the Soviets but failed to mention which groups. It did include a Jewish woman in a case study. The Soviets said she'd been spreading anti Soviet propaganda while hiding from Nazis in the west….

The silences are concerning.

On the other hand, new monuments are being dedicated at a rapid rate. I saw one in Liepaja that was less than a week old. It quoted God's promise to eunuchs, "I will give them an everlasting name" (Isaiah 56:5) in several languages.

New monuments are also being placed this summer in Riga and around the Baltics. One was placed in Klaipeda an hour before our ferry arrived last week.

Its a long time to wait for a monument while still being ignored in the museums. Why is this happening now?

7th August 2026, 8:36 pm 3 boosts 10 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Sea buckthorn drink is good for colds and attracting wasps

8th August 2026, 9:00 am 0 boosts 2 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Saw a kid drawing graffiti that included a star of David.

D✡️D with a G in the star and then some other symbols around it and text.

His hoodie also had a ✡️ and the words "carry a glock."

Not sure what's going on here, but its shabbat, so I doubt this was pro-Jewish.

8th August 2026, 11:57 am 1 boosts 2 favorites

There was some antisemitism about.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Note: if you are unfamiliar with the term "holocaust inversion" or are unclear what its a problem, please see celesteh.com/blog/2026/04/03/h

This evening, I saw an amusing flyer for a show and started to take a picture of it, until my spouse noted that the name of one of the bands was 'Holocaust' followed by a parenthetical statement of support for Gaza.

I do not have a picture.

When I wrote the post linked at the top, I have to admit I was more envisioning people making a rhetorical point in a post, not making it their whole musical identity . . . And in the anglosphere, not in a place where people in the 1940s filmed themselves shooting thousands of Jews at close range in mass executions. How much did the (great) grandparents of the band members collaborate with the actual holocaust???

….

My spouse says this is all just background noise in Eastern Europe, which I shouldn't let get to me.

We're very near what used to be Pale of Settlement en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pale_of_ which is one of the few parts of Europe where Jews were allowed to live at all. . . .

8th August 2026, 8:22 pm 1 boosts 6 favorites

It later became apparent that I had accidentally embarked on an ‘oy vey’ tour.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The Jewish museum in Riga ends with the Shoah.

Which is a curatorial choice.

I didn't want to hit rewind on the audio tour, but I think it said that when the Soviets arrived, they helped arrange for Jewish prisoners to be moved west to death camps?

[Edit: I'm having trouble finding confirmation of this. I may have misheard.]

I. Uh. Wow.

9th August 2026, 10:14 am 0 boosts 6 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The synagogue in Riga has 8000 members and is the largest in the Baltics. The building that hosts the museum also has a JCC, a library and other cultural institutions. There is a large Jewish school.

As soon as the Soviets left, they got some historic buildings back.

Without wishing to minimise the trauma of the Shoah, it wasn't the end of the story. The museum's founder was a survivor who escaped to join the partisans and fight for liberation.

I dunno I dunno.

9th August 2026, 10:52 am 1 boosts 8 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Anyway, Stalin's pact with Hitler was partly because they shared values in common. Yeah, they eventually defeated the Nazis, but how far would the Reich have gotten if the Soviets had opposed them from the start?

And also: The Soviet sponsored Communist Party USA did a lot of really important and good work in the US civil rights movement. They were heroic, really.

But the Soviet record on civil rights was less straightforwardly good in places they actually had power.

And by contrast, people who admired the US from afar had material reasons for doing so.

So, like, communism and barbarism has often not been a binary opposition. ….

9th August 2026, 11:30 am 0 boosts 10 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

I go on holiday to relax and recharge

9th August 2026, 11:31 am 0 boosts 8 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The Betar Zionist organisation was founded in Latvia. A bunch of their belongings were discovered in the woods in 2016 and given to the Riga Ghetto and Holocaust Museum.

Anyway, guess where I'm currently regretting my travel itinerary.

(Yes, the reason that name rings a bell is because they've always been far right and are now aligned with Trump. Their fascism didn't save them before and it won't save them now.)

And yeah, Zionism always ends up entangled with Shoah memorial stuff because of the history of the 1930s and 40s and, to be real for a minute, organisations reflect the political priorities of their funders.

Edit: The fate of the Bundists is less explored, but their association with Soviets made their whole deal much less appealing after Soviets actually arrived.

9th August 2026, 1:17 pm 0 boosts 7 favorites

The Bundists actually disbanded in 1920ish, except in Poland.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Riga reportedly has a great hat museum. I should have gone to the hat museum. Or the art museum. Or to a synthesiser maker….

9th August 2026, 6:26 pm 0 boosts 7 favorites

We did actually go to a Soviet building right after the Holocaust Museum to check out the view.

Those buildings are zeppelin hangars.

And we went to see some live laptop music.

Platons Buravickis on MAX

The venue was extremely cool.

A giant sculpture of a fox. You can see the Soviet tower in the background.

Charles 𝄢 H

Live MAX performance in Riga.

Just after this, the bass was dropped.

9th August 2026, 2:14 pm 0 boosts 2 favorites

Charles 𝄢 H

Doom algorave is in a garden with seven audience members, a few people just relaxing, an old school punk walking around everywhere very purposefully, and a children's birthday party.

This is so good.

9th August 2026, 2:21 pm 0 boosts 1 favorites

Charles 𝄢 H

I cannot believe how much non distorted sound he is getting out of those two speakers. He's doing a detuned drone that I can feel in my bones.

@cappelnord has identified him as Platons Buravickis.

9th August 2026, 2:35 pm 0 boosts 0 favorites

We also went to an organ concert.

A large and notable organ.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

We went to the circus festival to see a work in progress by the artist in residence. It was clowning mixed with acrobatics.

And we went to a tiny algorave (see: post.lurk.org/@celesteh/117065 )

And an organ concert on one of Europe's largest and most notable church organs. Almost all of the music was secular and by a Latvian composer, Imants Kalniņ (writer of the USSR's first rock opera). The other two pieces were by Aster Piazzolla.

This organ has like six thousand pipes
9th August 2026, 6:36 pm 0 boosts 7 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Walking through the underpass on the way to the coach station and somebody, quite recently, drew some swastikas. And another person with a big sharpie turned them all into wrapped presents and wrote some words.

Top work by the second sharpie-ist. Brilliant praxis and fast.

Obviously, it would be better if it weren't needed, but I'd already gathered this is a place where it is needed. Now I know its a place where people step up and do it.

On my way to Vilnius.

10th August 2026, 7:03 am 3 boosts 20 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The bus driver inexplicably choosing to straddle the lane marker and drive on the rumble strip.

Maybe it would have been fun to take a slow, soviet train….

10th August 2026, 9:38 am 0 boosts 3 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Right next to the Vilnius ghetto memorial is a little café.

A photo of the memorial which shows a couple of café chairs. Taken from a cafe chair. I'm having a raspberry lemonade. To the right of the memorial is an informational panel I came to read. On top of the memorial are many small stones.
10th August 2026, 3:27 pm 0 boosts 7 favorites

A bigger town had some vegan food

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Zeppelins!

Cepelinai are giant sort of gelatinous potato pastry filled with cottage cheese or meat and garnished by cracking. This excellent vegan version was filled with soy sausage and garnished with cooked vegetables that may have been vinegar pickles. At Bernelių Užeiga in Vilniaus
10th August 2026, 6:30 pm 2 boosts 7 favorites

And some non-vegan food…

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

This doesn't seem kosher…

A tin of beaver meet. It has a drawing of a beaver.
10th August 2026, 6:32 pm 0 boosts 5 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

Water organs and musical fountains are very different from each other.

11th August 2026, 9:08 am 1 boosts 3 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The souvenir shop is selling a 400€ tiny synthesiser, which seems to have no connection to Vilna. plinkysynth.com/

11th August 2026, 10:42 am 0 boosts 2 favorites

One of the churches had a lot of relics. I think, though, they were third class relics. Little medals given out to people who do pilgrimages. They also had a cherub that looked strangely like Trump.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The St Francie's church has a whole wall of relics (first class relics are pieces of dead saints), but despite this, St Francis's organ is not intact.

Sad!

A side chapel whose altar piece is a life size crucifixion, framed with what appears to be many reliquaries. They seemed to have medals inside them. I did not approach because the lit lamp shows that there's consecrated bread in the breadbox and I didn't want to be disrespectful in case someone showed up to pray. A relatively large pipe organ, but one with several gaps. A wooden angel, which was near the front altar piece. My spouse said, "let me show you an angel who is oddly reminiscent of Trump" and I knew which one she meant …
11th August 2026, 10:53 am 1 boosts 3 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

White US liberals like people to know they're one of the good ones, which they broadcast by speaking too loudly about their political opinions, so everyone around them can eavesdrop and know they're ok.

Which means every time I go into a tourist café (which is where one finds the vegan food), I'm surrounded by people shouting about Trump.

Look, my people, everyone is ready to assume the best of you, so you can just talk at your normal, already quite loud, volume.

Also, trust me, the solution to the world's problems doss not include white US citizens taking up even more space! Nobody hears you talking too loud and thinks 'oh thank goodness, that person is normal and ok.' Practice speaking more softly.

12th August 2026, 6:37 am 2 boosts 6 favorites

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

The difference between how queer history is discussed and how Jewish history is discussed are like exact opposites of each other.

12th August 2026, 11:42 am 1 boosts 6 favorites

Somebody queried that last toot.

Charles :trans: , fuck all GenAI

@Avner

Everything queer is perpetually new. We were invented last week. Everything Jewish bears the weight of centuries, even if it's a thing that started within living memory.

When queers talk about Weimar, they emphasise the good times, the bars, the freedom. They don't talk as much about what happened to them/us next.

When we talk about police raids on bars, we go in to talk about Stonewall and other riots. We are always talking about resistance and freedom.

I'm not saying this is the right thing to do. I don't know if we've settled on a way to talk about AIDS. Indeed, I have my own memories of that time. But I suspect it will be like the film '120 BPM'. Partly I think this is because Christian majority culture can't cope with loss and doesn't know how to memorialise.

I feel like queers could learn from Jews how to incorporate AIDS trauma into shared memory and Jews could learn from queers on how to contextualise.

The Jewish museum in Vilnius does a better job of this than the one in Riga. Especially the shetl nostalgia was well presented, if somewhat idealised.

12th August 2026, 5:45 pm 1 boosts 2 favorites

This post to be continued….

Reflection / Unstructured Thoughts

I spent one week on a residency on a small farm on Slovenia, at Rizoma. My goal for this residency was to build out the database back end for the MOO project.

I’ve had the idea for a while that it would be nice to work at a more human pace in a more natural environment. I was working with a computer and definitely on the power grid, but in a room without artificial lighting. I kept to daylight hours. I spent a lot of time outdoors. I went for a few walks, made a lot of field recordings and did a very small amount of farm labour. A consequence of working at this pace is that it’s slow. I did not finish the project I set out to do. Working at a more human pace means being more realistic about time estimates. I should have allowed two or three weeks.

I have in my life, spent weeks at a time living out of a tent, but this has generally been on bicycle trips. It’s somehow easier to stay in a tent if everything is packed up every morning. There is not only novelty, but things stay put away and don’t slowly creep out over every surface.

I spent several nights wishing I had my own tent, until one morning, one of the farm cats came to wake me up, by climbing under the rain fly and clawing me through the tent. My own tent would not have withstood claws any better and I would have been upset to get holes in it.

The site had a composting toilet and outdoor showers, one of which faced out over the valley below. That part of Slovenia is very hilly. The farm is right next to cliffs. The acoustics of the valley and the cliffs were dramatic. It was a lovely space.

However I was not fully prepared for the environment. Slovenia has a lot of ticks. My one previous experience with ticks gave me Lyme Disease, an experience I’m eager to not repeat. I need to bring long, light, loose trousers, longer socks and long sleeve shirts.

Overall, the experience was very positive.

The outcomes of this experience are:

  • Good progress on the MOO back end.
  • A greater awareness of what questions to ask when preparing.
  • An understanding that the goals of greater productivity and human pacing are a dialectic. Which is to say, they are largely, but not wholly, in conflict with each other.
  • Several field recordings – there will be a recording forthcoming.
  • This set of reflections.

California time Table

Hello California friends. I am in your state. This is my schedule for the next few days:
Tonight, 28 May, I am going to the SF Sound show. Maggi Payne is playing, so it will be awesome. It’s at 55 taylor :: san francisco :: $10/7 :: 7:49p.
29 May, I will be going to see ReCardiacs Fly at the Hemlock Tavern. This is Polly Moller (and friends) new project, so it will be awesome. It’s at 1131 Polk St :: san francisco :: $7 :: 8:30p.
30 May, I will be playing as half of the duo No More Twist at the Berkeley Arts Festival Space. Jörg Hiller is also playing, so it will be awesome. It’s at 2133 University :: berkeley :: $10-20 (sliding scale) :: 7:30p.
I have a minor injury which makes it slightly painful for me to bicycle, so I’m being intentionally vague about my schedule. I hope to head down to the South Bay for a short while and available for socialising.
On June 3rd, my girlfriend flies in to San Francisco, so I’ll be back in the SF/Oakland part of the bay and doing tourist stuff and available for socialising.
On June 6th, I will be playing the piece Cloud Drawings at the Luggage Store Gallery. It’s at 1007 Market Street (by 6th) :: san francisco :: $6-$10 :: 8p.
On 7 June, I will be playing the piece Cloud Drawings at the SubZero festival in San Jose and will be around the South Bay and available for socialising. I also want to do some touristy stuff down there, so if anyone has any suggestions or wants to go to something, please let me know. I think we should probably see the Winchester Mystery House. We’ll also head for scruz at some point.
More details as they arise. contact me if you want to hang out.

Air Travel Letter

Dear Sir or Madam,
I am writing to inquire as to the rules for your airport and the TSA in general in regards to what constitutes inappropriate touching. Yesterday afternoon, 7 April, I passed through security at JFK in Terminal 7 and opted out of the scanning machine. The office who patted me down touched my genitals twice through my clothes, once per leg pat. This experience left me feeling humiliated and angry. I want to determine if I what I experienced conforms to the law or if I should file a complaint of assault.
Thank you for your time.
Sincerely,
Dr. Charles Hutchins

So that happened.
I don’t want to go through the naked scanning machines partly due to concerns about radiation. The machines are not regularly calibrated or inspected and are not held to any kind of standard even approaching how medical devices are regulated. Even if they’re safe when they’re first installed the lack of maintenance is a major cause for concern.
And part of my concern with the devices is that they’re invasive without actually increasing security. That the newer machines, such as the ones installed at JFK, do not actually allow somebody to look at naked images does not allay these concerns. Operators pick a pink or a blue button depending on their guess as to the passenger’s primary and secondary sex characteristics. The machine then takes a scan and compares the passenger’s naked body with an idealised form of naked bodies. Areas of difference are then highlighted for additional scrutiny. Therefore, anyone who has a hidden disability that impacts their physical form or otherwise has an atypical body configuration must disclose this to the TSA workers.
My choices would therefore seem to be discussing my genitals with a TSA worker or having them felt by a TSA worker. Because this discussion would likely be extremely triggering, embarrassing and exposes me to the possibility of harassment, I’ve always chosen to opt out of the scanning machines, as is my right under US law. However, while the screener hopefully was not entirely aware as to the shape of my genitals, having them touched by a stranger under these circumstances also turns out to be more disturbing than I would have expected.
While I understand that not all genital touching is necessarily sexual in nature, this is a fundamentally different experience than one in a medical context. When examined by doctors, they explain what is going to happen immediately before it happens. While the TSA agent did mumble through a list of his prescribed actions, I was not warned of what was about to happen as it arose. Also, medical examinations always at least offer a chaperone or else provide one automatically. Finally, medical examinations are concerned primarily with my health and well-being, which is exactly the opposite power dynamic. Because consent is somewhat unclearly explained and is effectively coerced, this kind of invasive touching invites comparisons to sexual assault. And honestly, I don’t know if I was assaulted, as this has never happened to me before.
One of the oldest rights in the US, even before the Bill of Rights applied to individuals, is the right to travel unmolested. The TSA agent clearly violated that right and my person, so my only question is whether this is condemned or compelled by the law, as it certainly does not fall in between.
In frustration and unhappiness, I asked the agent if it would be easier if I removed my trousers. I then immediately apologised for this comment, saying he was just doing his job, which I assumed to be true at the time. He replied threatening me with arrest if I did so. Even after explaining several times that I was not intending to remove any clothes and regretted my choice of words, he kept repeating threats to escalate, advising me not to make things more difficult for myself.
I deeply regret that I’ve planned two separate trips to the US instead of combining everything into one trip. There is no question this experience will effect how often I visit home. I am a stage where I am not easily triggered by things related to being transgender, but for a lot of people, this situation, if the screener’s action was legal, would be so triggering that it would effectively ban then from air travel. Other travellers are also likely to avoid visiting the us, including tourists, which obviously has economic impact, and academics attending conferences as well as those travelling for business. This thus then increases an intellectual and economic isolation of the US.
For all the people I missed in New York who are wondering when I’ll next pass through, I’m afraid it’s not going to be for a very long while.

Leaving

Apparently, people disappointed by the recent election results in the USA are so upset they are thinking of leaving the country. I know just how they feel. I was greatly dismayed when Bush won re-election and and also decided migration was a good course of action.
If you want to move, I strongly encourage you to go for it. Not because it effects me, I’m already abroad and you’ll vote from wherever you are, but because immigration is an excellent opportunity for personal growth. It’s also a logistical challenge but manageable. Don’t let property concerns stop you! I own a house full of furniture, but found very reliable tennants.
Where to move? I wanted someplace adequately foreign and distant but that wasn’t bewlidering. I was fairly monolingual. My first choices were EU countries where English is not the dominant first language. I won’t lie: the language gap of living in France was extremely challenging. I’ve ended up living in England and, although this is not because of language, it is really a luxury and a relief to be able to communicate in my native language.
Those of you who have political issues now will have additional concerns, of course. Basically, every developed and many developing coluntries have socialist prgrammes in place, such as healthcare. Still, one of the privileges of being an immigrant is that bizarre or poor chloices of your host country are not your problem. You’re just a guest. Don’t let naysayers stop you when they point out your choice country is lead by an atheist or has social programmes you disapprove of. There is no stable country that has a libertarian government which means that there is no utopia to go to. So what? We live in an imperfect world and you can at least get away from the meltdown of your own homeland.
My advice is to start thinking about how you might immigrate and where you might go. Do you have skills that are in demand? Does your employer have overseas operations? Is there an educational program you can enroll in? (Some countries do not charge fees for students and may even cover your living expenses, although this is pretty socialist and there are usually age restrictions.) Look out for fellowships for career development as many of these are industry funded. Some countries will allow Americans to set up businesses, so if you own a bakery here, you could instead have one there. Many countries have shortages of people in skilled trades, like plumbers and nurses. Some just have demographic worries and will take anybody willing to work. If you’re American, there is definitely a country that will take you!
Once you arrive, don’t ghetto-ize! It’s a good idea to make some American friends where you go, as they’ll celebrate Thanksgiving with you and can help show you the ropes, but make sure to have non-American friends as well. Expats who live entirely in American bubbles seem to get kind of bitter. And no wonder as they are perpetually in between places, niether in America or fully in their new country. Remember, whether your migration is temporary or permanent, you will live where you live. Try to have at least half your friends be non-American and at least a few native friends. There will be people around who want to practice their English or who have experience of living abroad and will have empathy for your moments of confusion. Join a local church. Meetups are also a good way to meet people.
It took me a couple of years to organise my move, so don’t worry if you can’t rush. Moving abroad isn’t easy, but it can be very rewarding. Your ancesgtors thought so! Give it a go.

BiLE in Venice

Juju and I flew in a day before the Laptops Meet Musicians Festival, because we wanted to go to the Biennale. Our flight was at 6 am, so we slept about 2 hours before having to leave my flat at an ungodly hour. Once arrived in Venice, the first thing I noticed that it was about 15 degrees warmer than London. And I wondered why I thought it would be a good idea to wear steel capped boots!

We found our hotel, which said it could get us a 35% price reduction on tickets for the Biennale, starting the next day, so we spent the first day wandering the narrow streets and looking into churches. It was my 3rd time in the city, but I have always gone during the art show, so had barely been in any of the churches before. They are astounding.

Covered in marble and monuments many metres tall. The Basilicas have no shortage of relics. I saw St Theresa’s foot! (Random aside: My mum had a piece of St Theresa in a tiny envelope, which I accidentally dropped into the carpet. Some bit of her was hoovered up and is now sanctifying a California landfill)

We walked down to San Marco square. It used to be described by The Rough Guide as “pigeon infested,” but this has improved vastly since I was last there. Street vendors no longer sell pigeon food, thank gods.

At about 10, the lack of sleep and the heat were too much for me, so I went to go lie down in the hotel. I had booked a hostel bed, but they had reassigned us to a tiny hotel room with a double bed. It was theoretically a step up. I thought about asking for twin beds, but then didn’t want to bother, as it was only for one night. I lay down on the bed and turned on the fan and lay awake sweating, wearing nothing but my shorts. For hours.
Juju came home at 2 and we both lay on top of the bed in nothing but shorts. It was not the best night of holiday ever.
Shelly and Antonio arrived the next morning, so we checked out and went to meet them at the bus station. We went then to the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, where we were going to be lodged by the Foundazione Giorgio Cini.
Even though it was early in the day, they gave us our room keys and let us check in. during the long process of photocopying passports and signing documents written in Italian, the festival organisers happened by and told us where to meet them for dinner and gave us a sneak peak of the concert hall.
We took a vaporetto boat back to the rest of the islands and went into some of the national pavilions for the Biennale. This year, they’re scattered around the city and largely free. The one that I liked best was Taiwan. Theirs was focused on sound. They had a large listening room and then a smaller room showing two movies side by side that were different perspectives on the same scene. Two sound artists were recording the harvest and processing of some grain or rice. They started in the fields and then tracked it’s harvest, it’s transport by train, the processing in a factory, the distribution, the processing of the chaff. They worked directly with the workers and got recordings form insides the cabs of vehicles and very very close to things. It was amazing, especially the sound, but also augmented by the video. I think it was my favourite thing at the Biennale this year.
The Festival took us out to dinner that night and the two subsequent nights, always to the same nice restaurant. The food was fantastic.
Antonio was talking about how he always buys travel insurance because he always accidentally eats something that he’s allergic to. Then, moments later, he confused a fish for a chicken. Fortunately, medical intervention was not required, although he is allergic to fish. People teased him for this, but I totally understand not recognising something that you never eat. I don’t really know many French food words for meat items because I never ate them, so I never made a strong association with the word.
The next day, we had the early sound check slot, so we did our technical stuff and then had some rehearsal time. We switched to using a BT home hub, in the hopes that supercollider would beachball less often. This was semi-successful. Supercollider just has a major issue with wifi, as far as I can tell. Also, when there were two iPhones running touchOSC on the network, data transmition got really blocky and jerky for SC users. I don’t remember if the Juju was effected on Max or not, but we had to have one of them switch to using an adhoc network to talk to their phone. That fixed that. So after endless faffing, we had a not overly inspiring rehearsal. Then they took us out for lunch at the one café on the island. It ended with coffee and ice cream, as all good summer lunches should.
We spent the entire afternoon writing our 10 minute presentation on the ensemble.
The evening started with a presentation from David Ogborn about the Cybernetic Orchestra, the LOrk he runs. He spoke about how he uses a code-based interface for some pieces. He described this as Live Coding, but I think that term is much more specific and refers to a particular type of on the fly code generation, whereas, the players in his group start with a programme already written and make changes to it.
Code-based interfaces are, of course, entirely legitimate ways to write and control pieces. They also do have some pedagogical value, however, I think it’s easy to overstate that case. For example, I can open a CSS file and make a bunch of changes to it in order to get roughly the look I want out of my website, but I cannot say that I know CSS and would not know CSS unless I actually studied it by reading a book or several help files and coding something from scratch. However, by being able to modify code, it does make the user into a kind of a power user and does demystify code, so it’s a good thing to do, but one needs to keep it in perspective.
After the longish presentation, BiLE then played for about 20 minutes. We played XYZ first and Partially Percussive second. I think that musically, they work best in the opposite order, but Antonio decided he thought it would be best to do my piece without graphics and as the projection screen was on the other side of the room than where we were playing, we had to do that order or nobody would look back to see the video for XYZ.
Shelly’s piece is normally for 4 audio players, so it scaled down very well for 3. I accidentally hit the mute button instead of fading out, so the end was a bit abrupt, but it was ok. It came out well enough that another band wants to cover it!
My piece is normally for 6 audio players and probably should have been practiced more for the smaller group, as it came out a bit more roughly. One thing that came out very nicely is that the piece ends with a bell sound and as that rung out, the church bells all over the city were ringing, so the bells sounded like a part of the piece. That was really nice.
Then we gave out presentation which probably went on for a bit longer than the allocated 10 minutes. I’m not sure if I said anything useful, especially after Ogborn spoke for so long. Normally, I want to differentiate between LOrks and BiLE, which is a laptop ensemble, but every band at LMMF was a LE, so I think this distinction was just confusing.
After the concert, they took us all for dinner again and then a bar. We all slept in a it later than intended the next morning, except for Juju, who flew to France. Shelly and I poked around the Foundation’s buildings and then went up the church’s clock tower in time for the noon bells ringing. I set up my zoom recorder, put in ear plugs and waited for the bells to ring. I could feel the vibrations of the big bells on my body and there were amazing partials after the ring. I haven’t listened to the recording yet, but I’m hoping it’s good.
After lunch we went to the Biennale at Giardini. We didn’t see much of it, actually. There was an unfortunate tendency for the national pavilions to have art pieces that were self-referential and about themselves. Or worse, about the Biennale. I get that it’s a lot of pressure and whatnot to do something for such a prestigious show, but maybe that pressure could be let out via long, rambling blog posts rather than via the art.
One high point was the USA’s pavilion, which had what seemed like some very smart critiques of consumer capitalism, all with a million corporate sponsorships. They had the symbol of liberty in a tanning bed, for example. Given the number of sponsors and the apparent popularity, I am slightly afraid I’m attributing irony and critique where none exists, but for the mean time, I’m impressed by an upside-down army tank with a treadmill on it.
The big pavilion there had a bunch of stuffed pigeons on it. There were some cool things inside, but I was not blown away by anything. We didn’t get very far in before we needed to go back for a concert.
The second night of LMMF was all music and no talking, which is good. All the bands were very good.
After dinner and the bar, we went to the old greek-style amphitheatre on the foundation grounds and opened a couple of bottles of wine. I crashed out around 4 am, but most everybody else stayed up until 5. Or at least, most everybody younger than me.
We were hanging out a lot with Benoit and the Mandelbrots, a live coding quartet from Karlsruhe, Germany. They were signing songs from youtube videos. At one point, we were walking along and everybody was singing the theme song from Super Mario Brothers. They have their finger on the pulse of pop culture, or at least internet memes.
The final day, we checked out and then went to Arsenal to see a last bit of the Biennale. Like in the last 2 times I’ve gone, I’ve like Arsenal more than some other parts of the show. (Although, this year, the stuff in the city centre was really the best.) There were a lot of pieces made out of trash, and dealing with waste and refuse and the disposability in general of pop culture seemed to be a major theme this year. There was a large hanging dragon made of discarded truck innertubes and fine embroidery, it was cool.
One very impressive piece was a giant statue, in the style of ancient Greece or Rome. It was as tall as a double decker bus. But instead of being made of marble, which it resembled, it was made of candle wax, was full of wicks and was actually burning. Already the heads of the figures had come off from the burning. The whole thing was gradually being consumed during the course of the exhibit.
Another piece that caught my attention beastiaity video from Germany called Tierfick. The animals involved were taxidermied. The video was disturbing but also silly. I actually do like stuff that tries to be shocking.
So, I heard a bunch of good music, ate a bunch of good food, stayed in rooms that were a reasonable temperature, talked to a lot of good people and saw a lot of art. I hope gigs like this become a trend for BiLE!

I wasn’t dreaming of a white Christmas

Yesterday, I sat on an airplane for five hours and when I got off the plane, my ears were uneffected, I had no jetlag and my carbon footprint was minimal! Unfortunately, this is because my flight was cancelled.
I was worried that forecast snow might stall all trains to the airport, so I’d arrived hours early. I knew they had de-icing equipment at the airport, so I wasn’t too worried about the planes. But as I was eating lunch, I glanced out the window and saw whiteout snow. I could barely see the airplanes at all and couldn’t see across to the adjacent terminal. It was beautiful, but also alarming. Then, after abuot 20 minutes, the skies turned blue and the sun started shining again. Amazingly, there were a few minutes where the sun was shining and it was snowing at the same time. Does this cause rainbows ( or snowbows)? I wondered.
It was all over very quickly. I wasn’t surprised when my plane boarded a bit late and also not surprised when they said we had to wait for a de-icer. I was, however, surprised by how long we sat at the gate. I read in news reports later that they couldn’t deploy all their de-icers because they had no place to park planes while they were being de-iced. So planes were ordered to stay at the gates. However, this caused a problem for landing planes, since the gates were all full. Thus planes full of arriving passengers sometimes waited for 4 or 5 hours to get to a gate. In the mean time, they parked them near the de-icers.
It might be because I have an undergraduate degree in Computer Science and thus have studied logistics a wee bit, but I could think of a solution to this problem . . ..
After five hours, our plane was delayed so long, I was started to get worried about arriving after BART shut down and this may have been why, with only 4 planes ahead of us in the queue, our flight was cancelled.
It wasn’t all bad spending so many hours on the plane. The cabin crew was helpful and polite and people chatted amicably with each other. The in-flight entertainment system was working. It was exactly like being in the air, except that we weren’t. I think that it would a perfect thing for somebody who was afraid of flying. They could have the whole experience as a kind of a dry run.
Once I got off the plane, however, things were a bit more chaotic. I had to clear immigration, which was a long queue and then the baggage reclaim area was chaotic. It was mobbed with hundreds of people from cancelled flights plus all the people who were finally getting released form their planes that had been waiting. The computer screen which said what carousel to go to was not giving any meaningful information, so I asked an employee and he seemed on the brink of hysterics, from not knowing anything (while at the same time being as friendly and polite as possible). After maybe an hour, there started being announcements, “If you are from a cancelled long haul flight, you baggage will be on carousel 3, 4, 5, or 6 . . ..” Some enterprising traveler and his friends split up, each monitoring one carousel, so when bags marked SFO started appearing on number 4, he got a call and then walked around the reclaim area loudly announcing “San Francisco bags are on number 4!” This is what I love about Bay Area culture, actually. Friendly, helpful and loud!
I went through customs and then got to the arrivals lounge which was heaving with people, who had been waiting for hours for passengers who had landed but not alighted. Frequent announcements indicated that the airline was very sorry that nobody had been given any information whatsoever. Other announcements encouraged those on canceled flights to sort out rescheduling on the BA website instead of queuing at the airport. I decided to follow that advice and got on a tube.
I texted Paula and she told me to come around fora cuppa, so I did, despite it being quite late. I brought my laptop and searched in vain for the rebooking link that British Airways kept claiming existed. I couldn’t find it anywhere, so I handed my laptop to Paula and started trying to call the airline. Paula couldn’t find the link either and a recording at the airline’s phone number told me they were very busy, so I should try calling again later.
Finally, after 2AM, I got hold music! Yay, I was on hold and they hadn’t hung up on me! I stayed on hold for an hour, while trying to find out any information at all about what was going on. I discovered that the best and most reliable way to get information from the airline was via twitter, but their tweeters had all gone home an hour or two earlier.
I use twitter. I think microblogging is fabulous and I’m glad to see somebody making good use of it, but in this case, I have to say that they really needed to also update their actual website and/or their phone message. It took quite some time before it occurred to me to even check twitter. And, indeed, if they’re going to make that the only reliable way to get any information, then they need to announce that someplace else, like on their website or their phone message. It was at this moment that I began to get a bit annoyed. I was even more annoyed when I realised, after 3 am and more than an hour on hold, that their call center was closed and nobody was going to take me off hold until it reopened at 6 am.
I went home and set my alarm clock for 5:59, but when I called, the phones were already overwhelmed and hung up on me. I kept retrying until 7 am, when I finally got through to being on hold. This time, the hold music was accompanied by spoken messages actually telling me that I was on hold. I put it on speaker phone and tried to stay awake until somebody finally picked up at 9:30.
I will be on the same flight on Tuesday, 21 December. This should land before 18:00 and give me enough time to get to Emeryville to catch me 22:00 train to Oregon, which arrives in Portland in the middle of the afternoon on 22 December. I am going to have an alarming odor by the time I arrive. Fortunately, I should be able to sleep on the train and I will still get to see my family, which is what motivated me to wake up after so little sleep.
And now I’m typing this out, in a haze of exhaustion. But hey, no jetlag, at least.

Body Scanners

Passengers who wish to fly from the UK have no choice as to whether to allow the government to peek at their genitals. However, in the US, you can opt to allow an agent to feel them (through clothes) instead. Speaking as somebody with an unusual genital configuration, I would rather allow myself to be groped than photographed, for a few reasons. One is that nobody can keep a copy of a grope to look at later. Another is that it’s highly possible I would be groped anyway and I don’t want to be singled out for special attention based on an unusual scan. Finally, I don’t wish to increase my risk factors for skin cancer by stepping into a beam of ionising radiation, if I can at all avoid it. For those who are fertile, there are also issues with exposing germ cells to radiation, especially those with testicles, as these would normally be shielded during an X-Ray.
There is a movement afoot to try to get people to ask for a grope instead of a scan, especially on the Wednesday before thanksgiving, when many people in the US will be flying. The TSA is making ridiculous statements about this helping terrorists, however, I’d like to posit that when getting on an airplane necessitates security agents looking at or feeling my genitals, the terrorists have already won. It is your right to ask for a “pat down” instead of a scan. This may be inconvenient for TSA agents, but this is a normal tactic of protesting. It would hardly do any good to launch a protest that nobody noticed.
Today, I read an article in the New York Times, which stated, “Do the imagers, for example, detect sanitary napkins? Yes. Does that then necessitate a pat-down? The T.S.A. couldn’t say.” So some security worker at the airport knows whether or not you’re menstruating. Charming. And they may or may not decide to grope you as a result of that. “Screeners, the T.S.A. has said, are expected to exercise some discretion.” They have little training, no union, low pay and no job protections, but a lot of discretion, I’m sure.
This is just too much. I wrote a letter to my senators:

Dear Senator –,

I am wiring to oppose the new body scanning devices that have been installed at airports. Today, I read in the New York Times that the devices are able to detect menstrual pads and the TSA “couldn’t say” whether this detection would necessitate a pat down. (http://www.nytimes.com/2010/11/16/business/16road.html?_r=1) This level of grossly indecent privacy invasion is unAmerican. It is an outrage.

As I’m sure you’re aware, the pat down one receives if they opt out (or potentially, if they’re menstruating) involves a TSA agent feeling the passenger’s genitals. All aspects of this policy are horrifying and I hope you take action to change it.

Thank you for your time.

Sincerely,
Charles Hutchins

Ok, yes, I did actually call something unAmerican. I know this is problematic. But Americans are, by and large, a prudish people and this is really not prudish at all and hence violates the national character. Also, I am exceedingly annoyed.
I wrote a different letter to my Representative, Barbara Lee, who is a proper leftist and involved with the Progressive Caucus in the House:

Dear Representative Lee,

I am wiring to oppose the new body scanning devices that have been installed at airports. As a transgender person, I am concerned about how these machines peer unnecessarily and invasively at my genitals. I am also highly concerned that once a security screener becomes aware that I’m transgender, I may be subject to discrimination or be publicly humiliated.

I intend to opt to be patted down instead, but as this involves an agent feeling my genitals, it’s hardly better. There is little evidence that any of this makes us safer while flying but it certainly causes me and many others quite a lot of distress. I’m faced with a terrible choice between not seeing my family over the holidays or having my genitals looked at and/or touched by a TSA agent.

I hope you can do something to improve this situation.

Sincerely,
Charles Hutchins